The BIG TWO- A Matterhorn and Eiger ascent
- A challenging activity combining a Matterhorn and Eiger ascents plus a preparation phase, into one activity.
- 9 full guiding days, by a qualified IFMGA guide/aspirant
- Guiding ratio max 2:1 for the preparation and 1:1 for the ascents
About the activity
One of the only programs out there, combining the two “big ones” plus a preparation phase, into one activity. The planned ascents are relevant for those of you who bring significant alpine experience, flexibility and good a level of physical fitness to a packed week and a half in the Alps;
The activity includes:
- A Matterhorn 4,477m ascent*
- An Eiger 3,967m ascent*
- Mountaineering routes up to AD+/D
- Movement on snow and ice
- Climbing sections of steep ice, up to 50 degrees
- Climbing sections of moderately steep rock up to IV/V level
- Rappelling
- Glacier travel
* If one of the summits will not be possible due to weather or conditions, we will offer a worthy and challenging alternative ether in Wallis, Bernese Alps or in Chamonix.
Exemplary timetable:
Day 1 Saturday- Meeting at 17:00 in Saas Grund- for a briefing and a gear check.*
Day 2 Sunday- A route from the valley up, to acclimatize and move fast and light in alpine terrain.
Day 3 Monday- 4,000m summit- Depending on where we ended up the last day, today we aim for a 4,000 m summit such as the Weissmies 4,017m with a descent to the Almageller hut or the Lagginhorn 4,010m with a descent to the Hohsaas hut. Both summits offer varied routes and difficulty levels. the overnights in the high huts help us to acclimatize.
Day 4 Tuesday- A second summit and descent to the valley.
* Since we cannot be sure if an Eiger or a Matterhorn ascent will be possible, we are approaching this activity from Wednesday and thereafter as an “open case” meaning that on Tuesday evening the latest, you and your guide will decide what will be the plan from Wednesday until Friday, whatever you do and wherever you go, it is the clients responsibility to cover all the costs for her/himself and the guide (travel costs, cable cars, hut or hotel overnights and half boards, drinking water and any other expense that might be charged on top of the planning and guiding) from day 5 until day 10.
Day 5 Wednesday- Drive to Zermatt and ascent to the Hörnli hut 3,260 m.
Day 6 Thursday- Ascent of the Matterhorn 4,477 via its Hörnli ridge and a descent back to the valley.
Day 7 Friday- Rest day
Day 8 Saturday- Change to the Bernese Alps and an ascent to the Mittellegi hut 3,355m.
Day 9 Sunday- Eiger 3,967m traverse and an overnight at the Monchsjoch hut 3,656m.
Day 10 Monday- Optional summit and descent to the valley, return to Wallis.
* The mentioned timetable is exemplary and may vary due to conditions, ability of the participants, safety & weather limitations.
* It is an advantage to start the activity already acclimatized- therefore we recommend to independently go up and spend the night above 2,500 m ether in Hohsaas hut or in the Britannia hut – there are many alternatives from the valley however those two are the most accessible.
Fitness level & difficulty
A very physically demanding activity- an excellent level of physical fitness is required- (D) as we will be climbing long intensive days with 10-kg (about 20 Lbs) rucksacks. The participants are required to be absolutely sure footed and have existing skills and previous experience in snow, rock and ice (Mountainspro ice 2; rock 2); The Eiger and the Matterhorn both do not fall under the category of “my first big mountains in the Alps. The offer is not suitable for people without extensive alpine experience with a very good level of physical fitness.
Since we try to maximize the efficiency of this activity, we may head straight very high- therefore we recommend the participants to acclimatize on their own before starting the week with us and spend a day- or even better- a day and night, above 2500 m.
Dates and bookings
Big two #1: 03.07.2027 - 12.07.2027
Big two #2: 24.07.2027 - 02.08.2027
Big two #3: 07.08.2027 - 16.08.2027
Big two #4: 21.08.2027 - 30.08.2027
Big two #5: 04.09.2027 - 11.09.2027
Price and details
Price:
Price for 1:2 preparation and 1:1 ascents: 5,375€ per person
Price for a 1:1 preparation and ascent: 6,850€ per person
The price includes:
- 8 days in the mountains.
- Planning and guiding by an IFMGA/UIAGM qualified guide/Aspirant.
- Guiding until day 4 the preparation in a 1:2, from day 5 in a 1:1 ratio.
- Guides expenses* until day 4.
- Climbing gear (ice exes, ropes, harnesses, helmets etc.).
Price does not include:
- Guides expenses from day 4 (public transportation/gas money, cable cars, hotel nights, huts, half board, drinking water and any other expense besides planning and guiding are to be covered by the client onsite).
- flights and insurances.
- Transportation throughout the activity.
- all cable cars and other forms of transportation.
- overnights in a mountain hut - 1/2 pension estimated 90€ per night.
- nights in the valley estimated at ca. 130€ for half board (breakfast and dinner)
- food and beverages, insurances